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**The applied dynamics of ocean surface waves.
2nd ed.**
*(English)*
Zbl 0991.76003

Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering. 1. Singapore: World Scientific. 764 p. (1989).

Publisher’s description [see the review of the 1st ed. (1983; Zbl 0562.76019)]: The aim of this book is to present selected theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering, all from the deterministic point of view. The bulk of the material deals with the linearized theory.

Contents: Introduction; Propagation of transient waves in open water of essentially constant depth; Refraction by slowly varying depth or current; Long waves of infinitesimal implitude over bottom with appreciable variations; Harbor oscillations excited by incident long waves; Effects of head loss at a constriction on the scattering of long waves: Hydraulic theory; Floating body dynamics: Diffraction and radiation by large bodies; viscous damping in small-amplitude waves; Mass transport due to viscosity; Currents induced by breaking waves; Nonlinear long waves in shallow water; Some aspects of nonlinear waves in water of intermediate or great depth; Wave-induced stresses in a poroelastic seabed.

Contents: Introduction; Propagation of transient waves in open water of essentially constant depth; Refraction by slowly varying depth or current; Long waves of infinitesimal implitude over bottom with appreciable variations; Harbor oscillations excited by incident long waves; Effects of head loss at a constriction on the scattering of long waves: Hydraulic theory; Floating body dynamics: Diffraction and radiation by large bodies; viscous damping in small-amplitude waves; Mass transport due to viscosity; Currents induced by breaking waves; Nonlinear long waves in shallow water; Some aspects of nonlinear waves in water of intermediate or great depth; Wave-induced stresses in a poroelastic seabed.

### MSC:

76-02 | Research exposition (monographs, survey articles) pertaining to fluid mechanics |

76B15 | Water waves, gravity waves; dispersion and scattering, nonlinear interaction |

86A05 | Hydrology, hydrography, oceanography |